Robbe Atlantis Build / Diary

The End !

2007-03-31T21:22:00.000+01:00

Well, my Atlantis is now sold, awaiting collection from her new owner over the Easter holidays.
She will be heading to the North East of England, where I am sure she will enjoy her new life.

I am a little sad, to see her go, however my model boating days are now at an end, as I move on to pastures new in my modelling hobbies.

I would like offer my sincere thanks to Taylor Sparks in the USA for all his support and advice throught my build of the Robbe Atlantis.

Thank you so much Taylor ! :-)

Taylors web site is one of the few on the web that gave loads of information to Atlantis builders and owners, and certainly inspired me to make mine.

Check out Taylors fine web site here :

http://www.sparksstudios.com/boatyard/atlantis.htm

My web site link follows and is inspired by Taylors :

http://www.busybeas.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/

Thanks also to Colin Harris in the UK for his occasional assistance.

I do hope you have enjoyed this blog account of the build of my Robbe Atlantis, and that is has helped or inspired you with yours, along the way.

All that remains is to say , thank you for watching !

Take Care, Keep Safe, God Bless

Stevie B

The journey to completion.

2007-03-26T19:27:00.000+01:00

Having had a few days annual leave, the weather has been kind, so I resolved to complete the Atlantis ready for her "sale" .

I must confess, the Spring sunshine shows up her fine timbers and overall finish very well.

She is far from perfect, many mishaps /errors /frustrations along the way, but I am confident, her new owner ( whoever that may be?) will be delighted.

Equally, once she has been trimmed for sailing, she will inevitably gain an audience at the lakeside.

All that remains is for the new owner to complete the r/c installation, add the few remaining small fittings , trim, and sail away.

She does look as pretty as a picture... but my mind is set, and she must now go, as I move to other hobbies.

I sincerely hope that you have enjoyed my little build /blog and shared my frustrations as she comes to her conclusion.

This has at times been a very challenging kit, in no small part due to some poor quality materials, and my own frustrations / errors.

I am aware of several builders across the www, that my blog has helped with their own build, and it pleases me that you did benefit from my learning curve :-)

Here she is then, as she is prepared for "sale".

Bye for now

Stevie B

Contact made with another Atlantis owner

2007-03-19T16:52:00.000Z

Many thanks to Cal Keen, for recent emails sharing his appreciation for my Atlantis blog efforts, which he has found very useful in his own build.

Thank you for the kind words... appreciated. Here is Cal's recent email to me :)

" Hello Steve,

A brief description of the photos:
Atlantis in van: I am lucky to have a vehicle large enough that I can transport the boat fully rigged.

Sheets inside hull, close-hauled: I made a tray that slides back to the rear of the hull, all the way to the rear pulley for the sail winch. This is so the sheets don't get tangled in the electronics.

Internal tray slid back showing carrying handle and electronics:
the carrying handle is the black tube shown in the picture. What I did was drill and tap 1/4" threads into the ballast weight, screw some bolts into it through the black aluminum tube. I can remove the cabin, slightly pay out the sails, slide the tray back, and carry the boat like a 38 lb. pc. of luggage.
It really works quite well. When I get to the pond, wearing high top rubber boots, I just set her in the water,slide the tray closed, set the cabin in place, and get underway. The pond where we sail is not subject to heavy seas, so I don't need the screwed down cover under the main cabin.

I am far from finished top-sides, but I am happy to be at the point of being able to sail.
I bought the Atlantis as a retirement gift to myself, 2 years ago. I did some work on her and then did other things for about a year. Now I have renewed interest in finishing the project.

I hope I haven't bored you with my notes and photos, I just want you to know that you have been somewhat of an inspiration to me to finish my project. I am looking forward to photos and notes of your finished Atlantis. Cal Keen "

Cheers for the input Cal !

Steve

2007-03-11T21:52:00.000Z

Okay, it's been to cold to work in my shed, here in the UK.. well, I am getting older you know and I feel the cold more :)

Seriously, though.. with the cold weather, illness, and other interests, I just haven't found any inspiration to continue with the Atlantis.

More Bad News !!
I have decided that, the purchase of the Atlantis was a foolhardy one, logistically it is too big a model to lugg around and sail on my lonesome.

That, and my sailing buddy has decided to hang up his sails too. has led me to some serious thinking.I do not wish to sail alone, and haven't sailed since my last build ( Vaporetto) last Summer 2006. The" light/spark" call it what you will, has gone out, and I have lost interest in all things model boats.

I am going to complete the Atlantis in the near future, and aim to have her finished for the Easter break April 2007.

Then, she will be advertised on Ebay to be sold off to the highest bidder,with all the associated goodies, more details when I get that far !

Meanwhile, the final part of the build will begin again shortly.

Cheers
Steve

Wheel house continued.....

2006-10-16T17:29:00.000+01:00

Well, some more progress this past weekend, not as much as should have been for two reasons.. 1) My enthusiasm for the build is starting to wane, and

2)The weather was so fine, I took advantage and gave my shed /workshop a coat of Cuprinol, to prepare her for the winter season.

Anyway, I continued for many hours on this wheelhouse effort.. and effort is what it is.. It is again clad in these awful veneers and trimmed with spruce.. as is usual ( like Frank says) " I did it my way" and here is the result. I used all my remaining stock of mahogany planks, trim and lemon strips..

I made a decision early on to refit all the roof material in white, as I feel it contrasts nicely with the timber /veneers used.

The following is the stern view, showing all 3 cabins with white roof material.

The brass portholes are now fitted in situ.. I was worried about this, given that one has to drill through this veneer stuff. I found a 14mm flat woodwork bit to be the nearest suitable size, then finish with a round file or a dowel and glasspaper.

Steve

Wheelhouse / Steering Area

2006-10-09T19:21:00.000+01:00

Whilst waiting for the tung oil to dry on the other 2 cabins, I made a start on the aft wheelhouse section.

Again, I really, do not care for the supplied Robbe stripey veneer, so have planked the captains steering area with the last remains I have of the Lemonwood Gerona planking. Again, I think its an improvement.. though, this is obviously a personal taste thing.

The veneer quality on this sheet seems a little better, no split parts or de-laminations yet !

Similarly the aft roof "stripey "material has been replaced with white plasti-card, that will be finished with Honduran Mahogany trim planks.

I feel much happier with this part of the build, I think the white roof area will contrast nicely with the rest of the fine timbers used.

After Sanding add a Little Tung Oil

2006-10-08T19:44:00.000+01:00

This is how the cabin looks after a first coat of 50% Tung Oil, and 50% thinners... the way this stuff works on fine timbers is simply stunning.

Thanks to Keith Jewell for showing me the way on this, this has to be the best finish for timber.. there is NO varnish on my vessel AT ALL !!

The depth, and warmth of grain will improve further, as more coats of Tung Oil are added.. as I found on my deck.

Steve

More Centre Cabin !

2006-10-08T19:38:00.000+01:00

Okay,
I gave all modelling a miss yesterday.. as I clearly got too annoyed and frustrated with this part of the build. When situations arise like this, its better to walk away...

Now I am pleased to say, the break, allowed me to re-visit the Atlantis, and rectify the parts I wasn't happy with.

I have spent around 6 hours on that centre cabin today, and am now much happier with the result.. so I feel I am back on track.

This, said, I am disappointed, in the quality of the woods supplied in this kit, overall..

Thanks to some left overs of Lemonwood Gerona, and Honduran Mahogany, ( from our Keith Jewell of Modelling Timbers) I have re-built some parts, eliminating that horrible cheap spruce stuff , that I do not like. Sadly, I am stuck with the yukky veneers in some parts of the build.

Anyway, this is the result of my labour today, after sanding.

The above are after sanding and PRIOR to the magic of Tung Oil... :)

Steve

Centre Cabin continued...

2006-10-06T21:04:00.000+01:00

Lemonwood now laid, and sanded, several back several times.. Robbe kit instructions show her trimmed with spruce strips, that are sanded back really hard, to a fraction of their original thickness.

As a trial, I have not done this, instead have trimmed the edges with thin mahogany strips.

Looked nice at this stage... So made a start on the 2 skylights.. Robbe supply a thin diecut ply template, to which one adds spruce strips, which are cut to size and glued.

The spruce, is much much too thick.. as you can see .

Mega sanding required to get these skylights down to a sensible level. This is after sanding... but still virgin wood, not yet oiled or treated.. and there are brass portholes and a roof hatch , yet to be added... so tis a long way from finished.

Looks okay from this view, but the sides are awful.

I have tried to cover up the splintering veneer with trim strips, and it hasnt been very succesful.. I am too emabarrased to display the side photos !

So likely I shall rip the sides off and start again.

Watch this space... Steve

Centre Cabin

2006-10-06T20:57:00.000+01:00

Work has started on the Centre main cabin..

This is the basic, structure, a vac moulding that requires trimming to the deck camber, the kit supplies the white abs roof which is contact glued in position

After a weeks work on this, I am not totally happy with the result..

The veneers really are difficult to work... very brittle and despite careful handling, any cutting or sanding to the edges and the veneer splinters..

I have come close to abandoning the project.. with frustration..

I think I need to take a break from it... &.. revisit with fresh eyes... The finish hides a multitude of sins, that I may or may not be happy with.. time will tell. there is chance it may be ripped off and re-started.. dunno yet But a break is whats needed, I am sure.

I am not a "woody modeller".. I think I lack the patience to get the finish I'd like. I admit, I do have difficulty working with wood, I much prefer plastic.. which I can work more easily and "repair" too...

Here is the progress thus far... it could change & be back to the drawing board..

Essentially, the moulding is "cladded" with various veneer parts and spruce strips that are cut to size, and then require extensive sanding ! As previously stated , I don't much care for the supplied "Stripey" veneer.

So I made the decision to use some of my spare Lemonwood Gerona, ( from Keith Jewell), this is the main timber on deck.Here they are, roughly cut and laid in position.

My version of forward cabin

2006-10-01T20:28:00.000+01:00

Okay,

Cladded with Plasticard, with smaller parts added , still using the kit supplied veneers and spruce for the doors and hatches.

I still have a lot more work to do, filling, sanding, painting, detailing, etc but you get the picture ?

I feel the white will contrast nicely, with the rest of the colour scheme..

More to follow soon !

Steve

Cabins

2006-10-01T20:14:00.000+01:00

Work has started on the 3 superstructure elements.
Starting with the fore cabin.. The magnet spacer parts are fitted.. these are the "attractors" to the powerful magnet already fitted into the forward hatch cover. Very clever, and works a treat.

Hmm .. the veneer for the roofing , now supplied in Robbe Atlantis kits , is I am afraid, not to my liking.. I much prefer the original Tiama plank version. The later kits, ( like mine) has a striped veneer.. that , personally I don' t care for.

I have been thinking of alternatives.. and decided on one of two.. either full planking with Lemonwood, or using plasticard , as the centre cabin does in the kit.

I did in fact plank fully with lemonwood.. but after a nights sleep, I decided I didn't like it..

So following a prototype schooner... ( not the Atlantis as its semi scale) I have decided to use plasticard.

Why ? 2 reasons..

Firstly, the veneers , are very, very fragile.. just handling them can cause the veneer to part with the ply, or chip when cutting or sanding.. and looks awful.

Secondly, I have decided, my Robbe Atlantis will NOT be like a regular kit built Atlantis.. I shall complete the build , to my spec, and my liking .. !

Well, it is MY Model :)

Loosely, and only cosmetically my Atlantis is inspired by this , Dirigo II

Anchors away

2006-09-24T17:42:00.000+01:00

A little more work on the Robbe Atlantis.

The anchor was assembled, and painted matt black, connected up to the winch chain, and hole drilled in deck for the chain hawse hole.. which is actually another eyelet :)

The anchor winch is positioned as per the plan and the the chain threaded through. Don't forget to seal the opening in the deck,with glue or silicone..

Attention then turned to the handrail section. Holes were marked, and drilled ( 2mm drill bit) as per the plan. I cut up some templates from an old deck strip, in 150mm, 90mm and 60mm lengths, marking up the holes is then easy to do.

The next stage involves feeding some 1mm brass wire through the lower stanchion holes and cut to length and soldered. However,the fun ( NOT) really starts with the top rail.

For some odd reason ( presumably strength ?) Robbe have supplied 1.5mm spring steel..

This is a ridiculously hard material to a) bend , b) cut and c) solder !
Cutting can only be done with an electric cutting disc... bending requires immense strength... and if you get that far... you won't be able to solder it to the brass stanchions anyway :(

I just don't see the need for this.. so I intend to order some 1mtr lengths of brass rod, to replace the upper railings.

At least , I shall then be able to cut, bend, and solder them !

I shall have to "jump" a little further along with the instructions, until the brass rod arrives.

Steve

Sails

2006-09-22T15:22:00.000+01:00

Not much progress this week, due to work etc and usual life "interferences" :(

Have started on drawing in the sail "seams", I think this is really up to the modeller, whether he /she choses to add or not.. Personally I like it... but really it's up to you.

Use a rule and a HB pencil and follow the diagrams.. I used the width of the steel rule for the spaces between the lines.

Take care...

I completely buggered up the top angle of the Gaff Sail.. and pencil ( as I found out)is pretty well permanent, once added to this sail material) So mine does look a bit of a mess close up... ( could kick myself in the butt now ) I havent found anything that will remove it, tried using an eraser, thinnners , kitchen degreaser nothing works...

Oh well......... hopefully it will fade over time...

Then you need to add the sail battens. These are self adhesive plastic that need marking out and cutting to size.

These are "probably" essential, as they add strength to the sail edges and help keep the sails in shape.

Four, 1mm holes need boring/drilling in these, near sail edges.. then stitched with some thread.. more sewing... yuk.

:)

The Sails

2006-09-17T19:53:00.000+01:00

Are pre- made.. all four of them... Other than fitting the strengthening eyelets... to each sail corner.. there's not a lot to do.........

NOW STOP !!!

DO NOT FIT THE EYELETS YET... !!

Despite what the instructions tell you !

Firstly, thread the stay wires into the the seams of the 2 relevant sails.. BEFORE you start to fit the eyelets !

Mark the centre of the seams... I placed a washer in position, then penciled thro the centre .

Then using a heated soldering iron, you burn ( melt) a 3mm hole on each corner.. add a washer, eyelet rivet to one side.. another washer on the opposite side.. peen the rivit over the 2nd washer, which will hold it in position.. ( tis all explained in the instructions)

If, like me you fitted the eyes before threading the darn stay wires through... now is the time to swear !! SO now you will need to remove them.. or struggle your "wotsits" off, trying to thread thewires through !

A tip... the eyelets supplied with servo accessory packs are the right size..

Now just follow the diagrams in the drawings... and you should start to have her looking like a Schooner :)

I still need to do some tweaking to the shrouds..., but couldnt resist adding all the sails to see how she looks :)

More soon !

Steve

Hmm ?

2006-09-17T19:47:00.000+01:00

When setting up the masts, I found that the forestay, seemed a little short.. I measured it.. and it is exactly the correct length... however, when placing the 75mm block under the jib boom ( as instructed) I found I couldnt "rake" the forward mast rearwards ( again, as stated in the instructions)

This puzzled me, ( and still does) so I simply added in a small (strong) split ring.. which gave me an extra 1/4 inch or so... and allowed the rake of the masts.

I have no idea where (?) I have evidently lost this length... maybe the brass wire bending too short ? nope... I checked... most odd..

So be warned.. you may be lucky... and not have the problem at all, however, if you do.. there is a solution.

Shrouds continued....

2006-09-17T18:54:00.000+01:00

Okay.. so now we have the masts, pretty well completed, time to try and install on the deck..
Hmm.. I failed miserably yesterday... you need the arms of an Octopus to hold things steady, check for vertical and tighten up the shrouds !

Today, I was prepared... after consulting my friend Taylor Sparks...

Firstly, learn from my mistakes... one of these, that is so glaring.. is those deck eye bolts.. to which the mast shrouds attach...

If you have followed the Robbe Atlantis instructions, you will have these screwed in, all the way to the deck... Doh !!

Trust me... unscrew these OUT about a third of their length.. I didn't !!
You will need this adjustment... as I found out.. too late !!

Okay.. so more or less get each mast as vertical as possible... when viewed from the stern.. (unlike this picture.. which shows they need adjustment)

Now I am still, an not happy about the soldering of the steel shrouds, so again, I sought advice.

As the mast shrouds, would appear to take a fair bit of the strain, I chose to secure these, using an idea from Taylor Sparks.. ( rather than the stabilit method I used on the stay wires.

Quite simply... crimp the shrouds in place, one at a time.. then take the loose end of the shroud and thread through an additional brass sleeve ( you will need to supply these) Add flux, and tin this sleeve, as well as the original sleeve with solder..

Now clamp the new sleeve tightly up against the original and solder in situ.. this will effectively secure the shroud in an S bend..

The idea & sketch courtesy of Taylor Sparks. A photo of "one I made earlier" :)

Shrouds n Stay Wires

2006-09-14T20:46:00.000+01:00

Section 20 of the build.. The Stay wires.

Robbe supply a braided stainless steel wire for the stays and shrouds, once cut to length, the ends are assembled with various loops and fittings as per the drawings.

I followed the Robbe instructions to assemble the shrouds. except for the final "fixing". I am reliably informed.. their advised soldering method is, well difficult. As you have two very different material, steel and brass, requiring different fluxes, different temperatures..

As soldering is one of my least favourite elements of ANY modelling..I am not confident adding to my potential failures !

I took the advice of another Robbe Atlantis builder, Colin Harris.

Colin experimented , had success and passed the following information on to me, which I followed.

Use the wood and nail jig as described by Robbe, add the fittings ( loose) to the wire and cut a little over length. Now slide on some heat shrink sleeve, mix up a small qty of Stabilit Express resin.. add to the brass sleeve AND the wires... Tension the wire... then crimp the brass sleeve.

Wipe off the excess, and leave to dry.. You can do several ends at one time to use the resin, before it starts to cure.

When dry, I left overnight, complete the other end, again ,under tension and repeat the above process. Once you are happy with the result, feel free to test it with a vice and pliers.. IT IS VERY , VERY strong.. far more so , than any of my rubbish soldering would have been.

Finally, cut off the excess wire & slip the heat shrink into place .. nice finish.. job done. I shall complete the mast shroud loops in the same way.

My thanks to Colin for the idea :)

Booms

2006-09-13T21:12:00.000+01:00

Boom preparation is quite straight forward, though I still managed to drill a couple of holes not quite vertically :(

Another thing to watch for is, damage to the aluminium finish when clamping them in the vice for drilling, I thought I had adequately protected them... but sadly they are now marked..SO I may consider rubbing them down and repainting.

The wire bending on two of the booms is made using 1:1 drawings and the 2mm supplied brass rod..

You will find, that the rod is too thick to fit through the swivels that are attached to the booms. I had to drill out the centre to 2.2mm to accept the brass rod.

Similarly, the tops of these fittings are bent over.. however, again you will find the brass rod too wide to fit within the groove of the booms. The only resolution.. here is to open up that groove and file.

This picture from Taylor , shows how its done. ( Thanks Taylor :)

Frustration Ahead !

2006-09-10T20:22:00.000+01:00

Oh dear.. For the first time in this build, my enthusiasm started to wane...

The masts, the shrouds and the booms... :(

Cutting the mast to length is straight forward, the main mast is actually the correct length.

Then comes drilling a multitude of holes.. These really to take some fathoming out from the plans.. some are drilled on one side only, others through both, some from the front.. various offsets too..

I checked, rechecked, checked again.. and still I managed to drill one extra in the wrong place !
This is NOT a job to do if you feel a little under the weather..trust me !

The Shrouds.. are so simple.. but the threading of them thro the lower left hole, up the centre of the mast, then through a brass sleeve , back thro the mast and exit the upper hole on the right hand side...

Sounds easy ?? Dont you believe it !! It has taken me nigh on 3 hours to thread 4 bloomin shrouds !! its the exit thats the problem.

I tried all sorts, pre- threading fishing line, thread, etc thro the upper hole, superglued it to the shroud,,, gently pull back,, nope,, comes off everytime.

In the end I resorted to slightly enlarging the oval hole, and patiently threading the shroud till I could see it over the hole,, then from the opposite side "poked" it with a thin piece of wire.. eventually you will get them,, But incredibly frustrating !!

I had some difficulty, understanding some of the fittings drawings for the mast, I couldn't quite suss the bends of some of the S rings..

I had to ask my good friend Taylor Sparks, http://www.sparksstudios.com/boatyard/atlantis.htm and he kindly took some close up photos of his Robbe Atlantis. Here are the pics, to assist anyone else with this part of the build. :)

Knitting completed

2006-09-07T20:52:00.000+01:00

I am happy with my sheeting endless loop now.. cut the remaining sheets to length, and threaded through the sheet guides to the sliding clamps, and secured with a knot.

All tested and seems to work perfectly :)

That said ... having never used this method of sheet control, it takes a while for "the penny to drop" and understand how the system works..

Once thats mastered, you wonder what all the fuss was about !

Next up is the metal work... the masts and booms.. Section 17 .

I need to study the plans and instructions, in the two masts, there are around 25 holes to be drilled, many different diameters, some even angled... my pillar drill will soon see some action !

Steve

Whoops

2006-09-05T20:51:00.000+01:00

Well, this evening, I started to fit the endless loop system... boy, this is fun :)
( NOT!)

All my previous and current yachts , use a simple push pull lever arm sail servo.. none of this endless loop stuff.

Followed the instructions ( I think) for the first half of the run, from winch to tensioned pulley and back to aft pulley.

Then my Big Whoops !! oh dear !!

I decided, the servo winch was rotating the wrong way.. so I hit the servo reverse on the computer radio..... Oh no!!!

Streeeetchh.... Boing... lots of Expletives from me...

Why the heck, didnt I disconnect the drum from the winch ??

Servo reversing.. ripped the spring from its housing, after stretching the darn thing by at least 50% .. Oh... Sh*t...

Ah well.. I simply cut it in half, re bent the one end and used that.. presumably the length is not critical... just adds "tension" to the loop system..

After 2 hours mucking about with my knitting, seems I have now "cracked the problem" :)

However, I have had to use the upper and lower EPA ( End Point Adjustments) on the computer radio.. which works a treat.. reduced to 85% and the system "appears" to be now spot on ..

Phew....

SO BEFORE you hit the Winch servo reverse... Disconnect the drum first !!

:) Steve

Almost time for knitting ?

2006-09-03T20:07:00.000+01:00

The sail winch servo assembly was fitted into the hull, after roughing the surface and using Stabilit Express adhesive.

The assembled sheet pulleys were also fitted in situ..

Hmm.. now the " Knitting" lesson beginneth.. Have never dealt with "endless loops" before , this is gonna be fun ! Think I shall need to study the instructions a little more before progressing !

Steve

Slow Ahead

2006-09-03T19:56:00.000+01:00

Slow ahead, with this part of the build, no rushing :)

Added the final deck fittings to the aft deck, cleats and sheet guides. Also the fore and aft pin rack frames have been assembled, painted and fitted in place.

Also completed the rudder connection to the servo. I used the supplied linkage, as it is tried & tested, and has built in adjustment. I also re-programmed my radio tx to ATL ( Atlantis) tis great having just one radio tx for up to 6 models... and accessing each models settings at the press of a few buttons :)

Painting All Done

2006-08-31T20:05:00.000+01:00

This Robbe Atlantis, IS a real Monster !

Prepping, masking,painting,flatting, repainting etc etc has taken best part of a week to complete... there's no rushing this beast :)

I have used 2 complete rolls of masking tape, 1 x500ml aerosol of primer, 2 x 400mls tins of Plastikote Super Satin Enamel.

Certainly the BIGGEST hull, I have ever painted..

Anyway, she's now being left to cure /harden for a few days, before I handle her again.

I am now researching /looking for a name for her.... I cannot simply call her "Atlantis " :)
Now that I have " the knowledge" I shall make my own decals for her.. making her truly unique.
Here's how she looked after the bulwarks were completed and sprayed up.

As I thought, the contrast of satin white and Keith Jewells fine timbers on deck, look fabulous..

I am well happy.

Steve

Bulwarks !

2006-08-29T20:57:00.000+01:00

And yes, I have swore a little tonight :)

Why ? do I have a heck of a gap between the bulwark strip and the hull top edge ?
If I tighten up the screws too much.. the bulwark profile is distorted and loses its vertical orientation.. which looks.. well crap !

So. I loosened off the screws a tad.. and spot glued as per the instructions.. then ran medium cyano ( super glue) into the gaps.

To avoid excess running under the strip and onto the hull, I used masking tape to make a seal..

Seems to have worked..

I can see nothing I have done with this strip is wrong.. the lower part is tightly butted to the hull... but the top has a good gap in some parts, particularly midships area. Tighten screws so that it all butts up.. and the top edge slopes inwards.. looking awful.

I can only conclude that the hull moulding may be a little worn and the top mounting edge has developed a curve , rather than a sharp edge.

Not to worry.. I shall fill the gap with some glue. and finish off with some sealant.. allowing any water to track along the bulwarks and exit thro the scuppers..just as the full size !

Left it to cure overnight..

Tomorrow screws to be removed, and the remaining holes filled.. and prep for final spraying..

Hull Painting

2006-08-28T18:44:00.000+01:00

The last UK bank holiday this weekend ( before Chrsitmas !! ) allowed me to get some progress on the Atlantis hull.

For top coat, I chose an all white colour scheme, with the water line marked with a nice twin stripe.

I feel the white will contrast very nicely with my "Keith Jewell" fine timbers :)

Here's a few photos, the final one shows the bulwark strip temporarily fitted using screws.. eventually this strip will be glued , the screws removed, holes filled and sanded.

Finally the top coat, again in white will follow.

Displacement

2006-08-26T20:30:00.000+01:00

Not quite the nautical term meaning :)

But my garage is now the temporary paint shop.. displacing my car to the front drive.

The hulls wooden deck was today masked off.. and she was transported to the garage for paint prep.

Flatted back to matt with 320g wet n dry, then washed, dried and wiped with a tack cloth.

1st coat of primer applied, showed up some moulding lines and surface imperfections.
Allowed to fully dry.. these were then filled, again allowed to dry.. before sanding back, wipe down, another tack cloth ( good they are).. 2nd primer coat sprayed..

She has been left overnight to harden... and will likely need another primer coat, before the top coats are sprayed.

I intend to use Satin white for her top coats, just a personal preference over high gloss finish...

When I got back to my shed, I found I had a visitor, this lovely butterfly, had lost its way.. I safely netted it. and sent it on its way..

A nice end to the day.

Out of Stock

2006-08-25T20:54:00.000+01:00

OOPS :(

I had hoped to start masking her hull off today ready for painting preparation, but found I had ony 3 foot of tape left !

Ah well... carry on with section 15 then: The SailWinch

I opted for the recommended Robbe SW1 inch # 8336. Mightily expensive though, ( I hope its worth it!) I am aware , many others have used the cheaper Hi Tec sail winch ( this would save you around £40GBP !! )

With the Atlantis instructions, there is a supplimentary sheet, showing dimensions for cutting the supplied servo mount wooden block to size.

I found the dimples /drill markings on the abs base plate to be incorrect( presumably as the specified winch type /model has changed thro the Atlantis life-time).

I recommend that you drill these holes to suit your specific servo width.
DO remember to drill pilot holes, for both the self tapping screws and the top servo screws.

I also assembled the three pulley blocks.. I dabbed a little superglue on the nut once in position.. alternatively you could use screw lock.. you certainly don't want your nuts to fall off !

Steve

We're off

2006-08-24T20:16:00.000+01:00

Made a start, section 13.
finished shaping the hatches..... 4 in total, fore, midships, stern and an additional motor hatch too.

Drilled all the screw holes, 1.5mm, then opened up to 2.2 as instructed.. ( note just the hatches are 2.2... ) the screws will self tap into the smaller pilot holes.

Also the forward hatch magnet fitted, along with the main radio gear on /off switch.

"Make a mental note," will need to buy an extension lead to allow the switch harness to reach the rest of the electronics gear.

The forward hatch magnet, by the way, is simply the Robbe retaining method of the forward superstucture.. which has a very shallow lip ..

Tomorrow's another day.

Building to Re-Commence Shortly !

2006-08-22T20:57:00.000+01:00

Well, have now got that out of my system :)

My "Italian Job" Vaporetto Venziano is now completed except for a little subtle weathering as she "enters service".

I am delighted how she has turned out, especially as she was my very 1st timber built POB ( plank on bulkhead model)

Here she is, on her maiden voyage..

For full details of the build see here http://www.modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=192

The Robbe Atlantis build is shortly to get under way again, with the imminent public late Summer holiday, here in the UK.

First task will be to mask off the deck timbers, prior to preparation and spraying of the hull.

More soon !

Steve

Another slight diversion

2006-06-30T07:50:00.000+01:00

Or should that be "distraction" :)

I have been slightly veered of course to another side project for the time being.

see here http://www.modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=192

The Panart Vaporetto Veneziano is my first all wood, plank on frame model, the build can be followed on the above link

The Atlantis IS my long term build, but I do like to have a variety of projects on the go at the same time......."variety is the spice of life" and all that ;)

So for the moment, the Atlantis is in dry dock, pending the "mood" swing to mask her hull up & start the spraying.

Back soon !

First Class Robbe !

2006-06-02T07:19:00.000+01:00

A pleasant suprise from the postman today, a small jiffy bag from Robbe in Germany.

My missing Robbe Atlantis small hardware parts...... excellent .

It's so nice to deal with a "quality supplier "

Thank you Robbe Modellsport GmbH & Co.KG

:-)

5th & final coat

2006-06-01T19:21:00.000+01:00

Well here she is, a rare "daylight" photo of the completed deck with 5 coats of Tung Oil to finish her off.

I am well pleased with the end result (not perfect, and nit pickers can nit pick, but I am happy :) , so who cares ?

Have got a little ahead of the instructions, the hull should be painted by now..... but that will have to wait till I am back from my holiday next week.

Anyway, have started to add some of the deck fittings, the mast steps and the brass deck-eye bolts . I realise they are not "scale " fittings, but, hey.....this IS a working sail boat ! So the fittings must be "fit for purpose".

I have also started to prepare the hatch splash covers.....these effectively seal the hulls innards from ingress of water... they only need slight trimming.... the forward one none at all, the centre one a little, the aft one needs more work.

As I have fitted the auxilliary motor in the aft well, I have decided that too, will require a hatch splash cover. This will involve gluing "spacers" so the rear hatch has something to rest on.. as can be seen in my photos.

The hatches & covers will need to be drilled as per the instructions, then put away until just before maiden voyage, when some silicone sealant will be required to be run around the deck openings, before screwing these in situ. ( more on that, when I get that far!)

This is the completed motor hatch splash cover, just needs drilling and putting aside till late in the build.

We are off on holiday shortly ,so the rest of the build is on hold........ Be back soon :)

Slow ahead

2006-05-27T21:32:00.000+01:00

The weather, here in the UK is bloomin awful..... here in the Midlands we have had several inches of rain over the past weeks.....yet still "down south" there is a drought, despite this being a very , very wet May..

But..... as it rained..... again ! I only managed an hour gardening, then I was confined to "the workshop" work on my Robbe Atlantis Schooner :-)

The weather is far too damp, to attempt spraying the hull yet, so that will have to wait a while, probably after our annual holiday in a weeks time.

For today, I worked on fitting the forward bow support.....what a pain in the a** that is ! Took me hours to get it to fit.... and align the flanged nut under the forward deck-eye hole !

Can't really give you any advice, except, persevere, trim, try, trim, try and trim a bit more till it fits! Seems to me , the purpose of this part is only to provide support for that forward deck eye-bolt, and spread any loading it takes from the foresail.

I then fitted the 2 mast steps...as per the "destructions" and drilled the various holes in the deck "A" frames.... Whilst doing this, some parts came unstuck .. these A frames are only butt jointed with Ca.. so are not very strong. ( so needed re-gluing)

I have seen these replaced with aluminium on a German website....so this always an option.

Assembling the "legs /supports" for these A frames, involves, decapitating some 2mm bolts, so you are left with the threaded parts.. these are then inserted into brass sleeves and soldered with 7mm thread protruding in the flanged part and 4mm on the other end.

BE WARNED....... in my case, and admittedly, I have used thicker planks than the Robbe original ( 1.5 mm v Robbe 1.2mm ) the 7mm thread projection IS INSUFFICIENT to attach the nuts under the deck...

I had to reheat these parts and pull the threaded area out to about 10mm so I can screw the brass nuts on...

Thats about the sum of my full day "shed dwelling" today :)

BTW......
Still nothing received from Robbe, in respect of the few missing hardware parts identified earlier ...... maybe next week.....?

4th Coat

2006-05-25T21:16:00.000+01:00

This is a photo after the 4th coat of Tung oil, "massaged" into the Robbe Atlantis timber deck.

The oil has really brought out the grain and a warm appearance to the fine timbers.

Each application, the wood is absorbing less..... I reckon 5- 6 coats and it will reach maximum saturation... so I added coat no 5 this evening.

Once complete, she should only need a wipe with an oiled cloth to keep her looking good.

I certainly am very pleased with the end result :)

Radio Arrival

2006-05-25T21:00:00.000+01:00

Well, after yesterdays Genoa Sail no show, my radio gear has arrived.
Seemed to be good value to me, and the highest specification for the price.

I have gone for the Futaba 6 EX PCM 40 meg FM set...

Ready fitted with a ratchet on the left stick , which is ideal for sheet control.. it has 6 channels.. my theory was.......
1) main sheet
2) rudder
3)Aux motor
4) Genoa winch ( if I do decide to have one)
5) Genoa motor ditto
6) Lights

I am also happy it is the first " multi model memory" set I have owned.. in theory one can set different models up ( only another rx and xstal required) store all the settings, including trims and servo reversing, and with just a few buttons.

Personally I also like to see the remaining battery voltage...... this is a digital readout, with an alarm when level falls too low.

Leds for power information just don't do it for me :)

Oops

2006-05-24T19:13:00.000+01:00

Let down by my supplier...... waited in expecting the Robbe Atlantis Genoa delivery, nothing came...
Chased supplier, told the importer hasn't got it in stock......delay of several weeks.

I have now cancelled the order, for three reasons..

1) they took the payment in full and promised delivery
2) they charged me for 48 hour delivery of an item they hadn't got !
3) I only found out because I chased them !

On principle, this is not good customer service or practice, so I shall take my business elsewhere, and have asked for a full refund.

Regrettably, there appears to be fewer and fewer reliable UK outlets these days.....

I shall use the delay time as thinking time and revisit my decision on the Genoa.

The Obvious

2006-05-20T22:07:00.000+01:00

Is sometimes, under ones nose, and we cannot see it !!
Yesterday, I hunted, high and low thro the parts bag for some tiny csk screws, with which to attach the bulwarks, temporarily..

They didnt quite match the description in the parts.... so I asked a few aquaintances, who have built / or are building the same Robbe Atlantis Schooner.

It seems, I had selected the right ones for the job. Tiny slot head csk screws.

Then Colin H, suggested I spend a couple of hours "sorting" all the remaining hardware, into the relevant sections of the build, re-package and number them !!

SO OBVIOUS........... I DIDN'T SEE IT !!

So for a couple of hours today, thats what I did.... simply plough through the parts list , referring to the plan..... and sort em !!

Good job I did too..... I have found several small parts missing from the kit..... ringscrews, washers, nuts etc.. 8 pieces in total.. but all essential for the build.

Needless to say.. I have emailed Robbe, with the discrepencies.. and am confident they will make good the problem.

Quite honestly, I am not suprised, this Robbe Atlantis is a huge kit, with hundreds of parts... and is quite an old kit.....as all the parts are simply inside multiple plastic bags, that are not numbered in anyway ( unlike recent /current Robbe kits) The bags do not specifically relate to a building stage.. parts ARE mixed.

I would advise ANYONE who gets a kit, to do this "sorting" excercise... BEFORE you start the BUILD !!

Thanks for the tip Colin :)

Colin also informed me, that I would find numerous discrepencies in the parts, again he was correct.. many items are listed as steel, but the parts are brass...... and indeed vice -versa. Certainly adds to the challenge Robbe !

Of particular note, is the anchor 22.13 ..... quoted as brass.... but its plastic !

Third Coat

2006-05-20T21:47:00.000+01:00

Today saw the third coat of Tung Oil massaged onto the deck timbers of my Robbe Atlantis. This is the first undiluted coat, it is much thicker than the previous two layers, which were diluted with 50% white spirit.

As per the instructions, the oil was left to soak in for 15 minutes..... before the excess was wiped off with a clean cloth.
(This part is important, as if it were left, it would become sticky and prevent further penetration into the wood )

I have also made a start on the bulwarks.... oh what fun they are !!

Remember...... ( I Didn't !! ) there is a left and right....... side to trim to the 45 degree bow angle... Fortunately.. there is enough length to allow one c*ck up ! :)

Perseverence is required to get those bow parts to meet with a sharp point. Similarly the scuppers /washports are a challenge...

I have been asked, "Would I use the same method for caulking again" ? My answer is YES...... but...... on the ends, I would use a hard graphite pencil..... the ink on a few of the planks on my model have bled a little.. though.... I don't feel they are too intrusive on my Robbe Atlantis Schooner.

Indeed, I am very happy with the overall result.... and its only me that has to be pleased with it !

Here's a close up of the deck, showing how the Tung Oil treatment has brought the fine grain to the surface of both varieties of wood... It has a lovely "glow".. and there is still more oil to go on yet !

Tung at the ready ?

2006-05-17T18:54:00.000+01:00

Before, I opened the tin, I also ordered some "tack cloths", to completely remove any traces of dust etc, essential before starting to apply the finish.

The instructions on the tin, state the first few coats should be diluted to around 50% with white spirit, this evidently assists absorption into the timber, so thats what I did.

Boy, was I pleasantly suprised !! What an improvement..... the wood, on my Robbe Atlantis, particularly the Lemonwood Gerona, takes on a fabulous " warm glow", enhancing the timbers grain beautifully.

I continued to liberally cover the deck, massaging the oil into the deck......

(rather like a massage :)

Now, following the instructions I need to wait for it to fully dry out, before adding another coat, which could take up to 4 days...though I think it will be sooner as the white spirit will act as an accelerant.

Pure Tung Oil

2006-05-17T18:46:00.000+01:00

This is the finish , I am applying to my Robbe Atlantis deck timbers, as advised by my "Timber Guru" Keith Jewell. www.modellingtimbers.co.uk

A little research , has shown that is is a very, very old method of preserving, protecting and waterproofing timber.

I have "borrowed" this description from the www.

TUNG OIL HISTORY: Pure Tung Oil is a finishing product that provides a tough, flexible and highly water-resistant coating. It is classed as a drying oil along with linseed, poppy seed, safflower seed, walnut, soybean, oiticica and a few other oils. Although it is relatively new to the Western world, tung oil also known as chinawood oil has been known for centuries to the Chinese, and until this century, China was the main source for the oil. It comes from the seed of the tung trees, Aleurites fordii and Aleurites montana, deciduous trees that are very susceptible to frost damage. This vulnerability has restricted the cultivation of the tung trees to China and South America. Tung oil (china wood oil ) received wide application in China: in the building trades as a treatment for both stone and wooden structures; in marine trades as a preservative and water repellant on wooden boats. It is said to have been introduced to the West by Marco Polo. From the 13th to the 19th century, tung oil had only limited use in the West. More recently, tung oil has gained favor over linseed oil for wood finishing because it is faster drying and does not darken as much with age.

PURE TUNG OIL ADVANTAGES:
Naturally polymerizing finish
Cures by oxidation not evaporation
Does not form a glossy finish no matter the number of coats
Form a flexible water proof finish
Resists abrasion and acids
Does not blister and peel (properly applied)
Does not mold like linseed oil
Long shelf life
Does not darken with time like linseed oil
Concentrated (thin one to one, doubles the coverage)
Combined with "Citrus Solvent" makes an all natural finish
FDA approved for food contact

PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS: Pure Tung Oil is water and alkali resistant offering a protective barrier.A Pure Tung Oil finish will not darken with age as other finishes will. It resists marring, penetrates well, remains elastic and unlikely to check. Tung oil builds quickly, consolidates the wood surface and builds a transparent matte finish. Pure Tung Oil finish will not mildew or bleed like linseed oil when dry which makes it an excellent candidate for outdoor finishes. It should be kept in an airtight container with minimum air space. Pure Tung Oil contains no thinners or driers and has a light nutty odor. A Pure Tung Oil finish mixed with Citrus Solvent is a all natural organic finish that is environmentally safe and food safe.
USE: The surface should be dusted to remove all loose particles. Alternatively, you can lightly sand the first coat before applying a second. Any filling, sealing or staining must be done before the oil is applied. The first coat should be a liberal one, and you can rub it over the wood with your hand, a soft rag. Allow this application to sit for 20 minutes so the oil can soak in, then remove any excess with clean soft rags. Check after about half an hour for any seeping, and rub this off as well. Let dry completely (24-48 hours) between coats. For woods with very open pores, allow an extra 24 hours drying time.

Thinners can accelerate the drying process and greatly improve the penetration by cutting the first coat of oil with Citrus Solvent, mineral spirits or turpentine by 50%. Remember by adding mineral spirits or turpentine, Pure Tung Oil becomes toxic with these substances mixed into it, although the finish produced is not toxic because the driers evaporate.

The number of coats of oil to be applied will be determined by the intended use of the piece. Two to four coats are enough for decorative work, paneling and moulding. Surfaces that receive moderate to heavy use or handling could need up to six coats for maximum protection, plus a light renewal coat a couple of times a year. Apply till the surface reaches the saturation point. This will be evident as the surface will not absorb more oil. Renewal and building coats are quickly applied with cheese cloth, a lint free cloth or old nylon stockings. This process will give you a surface that will stand up to vigorous use and spills: water will bead on the surface.
Pure Tung Oil is recommended for wood finishing of kitchen tables, chopping blocks, counter tops, wood floors or refinishing wood floors and similar uses. Its non-toxic nature makes it particularly appropriate for children's toys and furniture. It gives good protection to wood paneling and molding.
Pure Tung Oil's matte finish will do nicely on certain pieces of furniture, but if a glossy finish is preferred you will need to buff and wax the finish, or use polymerized tung oil or a formulated tung oil based product.

Also as a Side Benefit :
We have found tung oil to be a valuable helper in the workshop. It adheres very well to metal, and a light coat rubbed onto tool steel is an effective rust inhibitor. Wooden handles will also benefit from the occasional coat.

Section 10 - The Transom

2006-05-15T19:22:00.000+01:00

Well, the fitting of the stern brass sheet guide on my Robbe Atlantis was lots of fun ( NOT !) Lots of trial and error needed here to get the optimum bend, to allow the tube to fit thro the aft deck, then secured with Stabilit Express.

Following this, I measured..... then re-checked, then re-checked again all the dimensions before drilling all the deck holes.

Next up, the 3 deck eyes, need cutting to length, a nut, washer, pass through the deck, and add another washer and nut under neath..... ( note this is why the transom area is still OPEN !! ) You gotta get your hands in somehow ! These 3 deck eyes, are needed to assist the transom setting, when glued.

I think Robbes illustration using 1 single elastic band is a tad "optimistic" given how much the part has to be bent into position.... see the "reality " pic..... + off camera the use of two hands applying pressure till the glue sets !

I am told you could also use a hairdryer to warm assist the bending the part to shape.

When glue has set, the transom part needs trimming, filing, and sanding to shape.

I have now had a thought, I shall need to oil the deck before fitting the rest of the deck eyes /fixings..... otherwise, some area's will miss out on the oil /waterproofing !

Best laid plans.......... etc :)

Sanding Begins

2006-05-14T21:50:00.000+01:00

Messy job this is.... weather didn't help with raining on and off..... pushing the Robbe Atlantis in and out of the shed /workshop , I had hoped to do all the sanding outside...

However, this is the result, used my palm sander with 100 grit.... to take most of the "rough" off...... then with a block and by hand, using various grades up to 400 grit....

Its, now essentially smooth to the finger touch.....the caulking has now become more subtle, as I predicted. I do, have a few minor "issues" where the ink has bled at a few of the plank joints.
However, I am confident that these will be less obvious as the deck is finished /oiled and the deck fittings fixed in situ.

I am still very pleased with the overall effect.

An unplanned "desirable " element has crept in... the lighter Lemonwood Gerona planks, do actually vary in depth of colour, some lighter some darker...... I feel the effect has added "character " to the Robbe Atlantis decking.

All Planked Up !

2006-05-13T20:31:00.000+01:00

Today, I got to lay the last plank on my Robbe Atlantis Schooner :)

I am very happy with the result, not perfect, but aesthetically pleasing to me....and thats who has to be most happy !

I feel the fine timbers supplied by Keith, have really added something to the model.

Tomorrow, will see the start of the sanding process......and no doubt lots of dust !

Not bad for a weeks solid work, but much quicker than I had anticipated...

Oh yes, and here are the stats.......I used >

54 linear metres of Lemonwood Gerona, 250mm x 5mm x1.5

3 linear metres of Honduran Mahogany 500mm x 7.5mm x1.5

1.5 linear mtrs of Honduran Mahogany 10mm x 1.5

And the Cost ? Around £40 GBP, I think it was worth it

Stern on

2006-05-12T19:57:00.000+01:00

A half day off work, allowed me to continue the planking.... another 3 hour session, this is as much as I can manage in each sitting :)

I must admit, the progress has suprised me, far quicker than I had imagined.

With luck tomorrow will complete the midships, then the sanding will begin....... bring on the dust !!

Just a reminder !

2006-05-11T20:54:00.000+01:00

This is a reminder to just how good ( & big) this Robbe Atlantis Schooner model really is, when finished.

Credit for photos is in the links section of my Robbe Atlantis Resource Centre website.

http://www.busybeas.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/

Thanks to all those that continue to inspire me with this project :)

Bow almost complete

2006-05-11T20:19:00.000+01:00

Another 3 hours with my planks :) on my Robbe Atlantis Schooner, and this is the result thus far.

Midships and stern to complete, a little trimming and tidying up, then out with the sander.... and make lots of dust !

Hopefully have the majority of the deck planking completed by the weekend.......

Worn Out !

2006-05-10T20:31:00.000+01:00

Another 3 hours planking on the Robbe Atlantis this evening, and I have worn out the 4th blade on the guillotine , and the cutting bed...... Thoughtfully, ( I didnt know this ) but Proops have supplied a spare cutting bed underneath the tool.. excellent.....

One of my best tool investments ,a very "essential" bit of kit for planking... at £7.99 it was a bargain. The Amati version is a much better built than this "cheapo", but it does cost £25 !
This cheaper tool is , however , equally fit for the purpose :)

And now the result, after a further 3 hours "plonking" with planks.... today... The guillotine is definately worth its weight on this project.

I am glad I ordered excess timbers too, finding that I can "waste" up to 4 strips to get just one accurate spliced strip to fit to the inner part of the deck, the curves really make measuring an cutting accurately , somewhat difficult !

I have made mistakes, it is not perfect, but I am generally very happy with the results, and when it's finished, sanded and oiled, I think it will look a treat..... We shall see :)

........and so we continue.........

2006-05-09T20:42:00.000+01:00

Just completed another 3 hour "shift" on the Robbe Atlantis planking . I must be improving my technique, as I am getting much less superglue on my finger tips :)

Also I seem to have hit a speedy patch, with fewer planks required , the closer I get to the centre of the hull. Though now every plank needs trimming to length.

My modellers guillotine has really come into play now, one of my better tool "investments"
This is a view from the stern of the Robbe Atlantis, I am very pleased with the progress and the visual appearance of the high quality timbers, I am using.

Robbe Delivers !

2006-05-09T20:40:00.000+01:00

On my return home from work this evening, a pleasant suprise, a parcel with a Robbe label on !
Whilst I have had no correspondence regarding my original complaint of the die cut veneer sheet, they have sent me a brand new replacement FOC.

Excellent service ! Robbe Delivered!

Robbe Done Good !

Many thanks to those concerned.

Another 6 hours later

2006-05-07T15:48:00.000+01:00

a few more planks laid to rest on my Robbe Atlantis deck :)

The planking pattern is just for aesthetics, I like it, so thats how it is !

I have tried to get the plank joints symmetrical on both sides,for the most part I have suceeded.

Certainly I do feel it will look better than the Robbe original.
( Thats my personal opinion, but I am biased :)

Some errors made, where the glue set before I had time to ease the plank into position,( should have taken Taylors advice and used Slo Zap) I used what I had available, Medium cyano, but to be honest it does dry a little too fast, and occasionally the result is not whats required !

This necessitates, sliding a sharp blade under the "errant"plank, and ease it back off the hull, clean up the area, and start again !

I still haven't found a way of not getting the horrible stuff on my finger tips, and subsequent loss of my fingerprints :)

Again, I am pleased with the progress and the effect, once the deck is completed and sanded smooth, the "caulking" will also appear more subtle, than it looks at the moment.

Had enough for this weekend,having a rest now !

Let us begin

2006-05-06T19:39:00.000+01:00

Today, I made a start on the Robbe Atlantis deck planking.

Began by using my palm sander to sand the gloss off the hulls deck, to provide a "key" for the adhesive.

As stated earlier in this diary, I have decided not to use the Robbe Atlantis kit spruce planks as provided, instead I opted for some high quality timbers bespoke cut by Keith Jewel of Modelling Timbers. http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/4520.html

I am using, Honduran mahogany 10mm wide for the King plank, with 7.5 mm outer planks of the same timber.This is a lovely timber, very warm colour and fine grained.
The main deck infill timber is "Lemonwood" a real high quality timber with the same qualities of the mahogany. These are the same width as Robbe originals 5mm.

The deck planking scheme, may not be prototypical, but what the heck, its my Schooner and I like it :)

My good friend Taylor Sparks http://www.sparksstudios.com/boatyard/atlantis.htm did mention I would lose my fingerprints ! He was right, the tips are now hardened with dry superglue :)

The caulking between the planks is simply permanent marker, my earlier research proved this was an easier method to achieve the individual planked effect, I desired.

( Sorry Keith, I know its not what you advised, but it works for me)

What you see here is about 6 -7 hours continuous effort from today !
I am reasonably happy with the progress and the effect and contrast between the timbers is spot on.

One of my other "essentials" that really worked well today, was the modelling guillotine.. far more accurate and cleaner cuts than I could ever make by hand..!

Preparation for Decking

2006-05-05T20:10:00.000+01:00

A few "essentials" purchased today, in readiness for the deck planking stage.

The turntable, I felt was truly an essential, the ability to be able to rotate the hull when laying the alternate planking is a necessity..... saves me moving to each side alternately !

Finally, having had experience of just how "hard" hardwood really is..... ( I recall the effort when I built an Amati Riva Aquarama! ) I thought I'd invest in a palm sander..... I trust it will give me a smoother finish than if I used a manual sanding block !

With luck, I hope to start the planking this weekend..... more when I do ! :)

By the way, after 1 week, I have had no response from Robbe concerning my complaint about the veneer quality, hopefully next week will bring a result ?

Typical UK Bank Holiday !

2006-05-01T15:57:00.000+01:00

May 1st here in UK , a bank holiday Monday = a holiday for a lot of us .

It rained, and it rained.... oh well..... we're used it :)

Not much progress made today, managed to get a base coat of white primer on the ships dinghy, between the showers, then started preparations on the BIG hull in readiness for the deck planking.

I have invested in a small turntable, that will take 100kilo weight and allow me to rotate the Atlantis hull, when I start planking the deck.

That said..... I do wish someone had told me to leave installing the keel weight till after the deck planking and the hull had been painted !!

Dinghy

2006-04-30T18:41:00.000+01:00

Continued work on the Atlantis dinghy, what a lovely little model this is...... I still have reservations about the veneer quality..... the sheet for the dinghy is particularly brittle and very thin.

The model has taken around a day to complete..... probably 8 hours or so..... I still need to paint the exterior of the hull...... but am pleased with the result.

I will have to think about using another cyanocrylate adhesive, the one I currently use, doesnt bond the veneers very well...... I ended up using a contact type glue.

My personal view is the gunwale fender supplied by Robbe appears over scale, so I have used some finer material to top off the hull.

I also feel , that in reality the dinghy would be in regular use, so I have slightly weathered the interior, as I shall do also to the extrior , when painted.

Added a few details and the end result is what you see here......

Oh, and finally, following advice from a German modeller, his experience has shown, that when sailing in higher winds, his dinghy on the deck, always returned to shore with it full of water !

He recommended I drill some drainage holes in the dinghy hull, to allow water to drain away.

Veneers

2006-04-29T20:12:00.000+01:00

hmm.. whilst awaiting the courage to start the deck planking...... ( I need to decide what planking method I intend to use )... either the "robbe way" which follows the curves of the hull or the more common "straight" method.

So while I try to decide, I thought I'd skip ahead a little, and make a start on the ships dinghy. This meant having a more indepth look inside #1133 the Atlantis wood pack.

An aquaintance, Colin H, who is also building an Atlantis, did mention to me about the "brittle" nature of the veneers...... Upon closer inspection, I now see what he means........

One of the main diecut pieces, containing parts 26.2 - 27.17 seems to be very poor quality, certainly some of the poorest parts I have ever encountered from Robbe !

As can be seen, the veneer has "bubbled" separating from the ply backing.... this is straight out of the box... I decided, there and then to identify and separate the remaining parts from this sheet............

The results are as above...... I am not impressed, not only is the veneer separating, but the ply is also separating !

? Perhaps the adhesive bond between layers is failing ?

This has necessitated in some "remedial" work to glue these parts back together and apply pressure in a vice. On a kit of this price, I do not expect to have to repair items out of the box !

I may well be just unlucky with this problem..... but my guess is, it IS a common problem and I think occurs as the wood parts /glue, dry out in storage..... , as stated, these photos are of the die-cut veneers straight out of the box.

I intend to raise the issue with Robbe, and see what they say.......

May Day May Day ! Well Almost !

2006-04-28T20:52:00.000+01:00

In the UK its the start of "May Day" weekend, a bank holiday Monday on the horizon.

Well, after what seemed to be a never ending winter, Spring appears to have arrived at last. Daffodils and Tulips are still well in bloom, the long cold months seem to have slowed everything down. But the Tadpoles have now hatched from the early Spring Frogs spawning, so better weather "must?" be coming !

The new workshop is now in situ, wired up, alarmed and fitted out, the older buildings demolished and removed, with the remaining garden areas gradually being tidied.

I must confess, to having been ill for over a month in February, followed with being distracted with "domestic and diy stuff" and then playing with my trains in my new found "space".

However, with the onset of better weather, my thoughts have now returned to the "Atlantis" , I am now refreshing my memory, with the Robbe Instructions and plans, so work is to resume on the build shortly.

I had always intended the build to be a long slow one, so nothings changed there :)

The next stage is the return to the deck planking.............

watch this space soon

My BIGGEST KIT has arrived !

2005-11-30T21:04:00.000Z

I had no idea just how bloomin heavy this thing was going to be !!
Heavy Duty is an understatement.. it weighs several tons !!

Panels are a minimum of 8 feet by 8 feet .. and take 2 people to handle them , the roof panels are much larger and heavier, ridiculously heavy to my mind !

Assembly had to wait till next day, as it was delivered late afternoon, and here in UK it's dark by 4 pm... :(

Took 3 of us, my son, my OAP neighbour ( who, I am indebted to, for his assistance ) and myself around 5 hours to assemble.. !!

Lifting the roof panels into position was a nightmare , but we did it..

Overall, I am very happy with the building, but do have some "issues" with the clear penny pinching the supplier has taken...

The roofing felt is overall too short, precut lengths are around 2" short ... so I need to add some more to edges and overlap to tidy up... then add the trim/ fascia pieces ...... there is no internal beading to secure the window panels.. so I have had to buy some... no pad bolt or lock..

These took the edge of my excitement at the time, however, I am now well happy with the building...

I have completely underestimated the time it would need to fit it out with electrics, insulation, alarm, shelving etc......

It is unlikely I shall be doing any modelling, on my Atlantis till towards next spring..

But ... I am happy with this... it all adds to the long term project.... Here's a few pics of the new workshop.

Monday, 28th November, as usual the weather "fibbercasters" got it wrong !! It snowed,,, !!

Fortunately, after 3 hours of mind numbing painting with Cuprinol preservative on the exterior panels of the building in 4 degrees C.. I just about finished before the white fluffy stuff arrived !!

Thats it..... I now need to kit it out, internally, transfer all my old shed contents into it, as well as dimsantling that other bike shed thats in the photo..

Likely to be no more updates till early 2006.........

Till then, have a Happy Christmas, and a great New Year !

check back in 2006 for more Atlantis updates :)

New Workshop base

2005-11-29T20:48:00.000Z

After 2 weeks hard graft, various days leave, weekend working etc, the base is at last ready..

The new workshop, is a timber building, very sturdy, 16 x 8 feet. all 16mm quality T & G on 50mm square framing.. Quite expensive, but will hopefully give in excess of 20 years service, if well maintained.

The countdown has begun...

Workshop base progress begins

2005-11-29T20:24:00.000Z

Well, I am missing my modelling at the moment, but the new workshop must be my priority.

The logistics involved in the move are horrendous... the old shed needed to be emptied, and all "stuff" placed in the garage, which then displaced the car....... and so on....

After several weeks, I have now extended the original shed base to accomodate the new workshop.

I didn't realise just how much "hard labour" was needed lugging around 400 kilo of Sharp sand, 4 bags of cement, and 25 2x2 slabs would be !

I am getting too old to do this :)

Fortunately the weather has been dry, but very cold, here in the UK, So I have managed to get a move on with the project .

This is the original base, marked out with the dims of the new one..

Note the Squirrel taking an interest, watching me, it's sitting on the last fence panel looking directly at the camera !.

Arrivals update

2005-11-11T07:57:00.000Z

Yesterday, my deck planking arrived from http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/4520.html

Packed tightly within a plastic tube, I have only had a peak in side, took out a handful.. They are fantastic, the quality, grain and machining surpass my expectations 10 fold..... they are magnificent.

My sincere thanks to Keith at modelling timbers, for simply fabulous service with my order, his advice, courtesy, quality and service is what all others need to aspire to !

Make no bones about it..... order your model timbers from here, and you, too, will be thrilled :)

The basework for the new workshop has started, the new larger workshop has been ordered. All being well it will be installed /erected before Christmas.

I don't forsee much activity on the build till the new year now, with the festive season fast approaching too, + the new workshop and the logistics of transferring all the "stuff" from the old to the new.

On top of which the "doom & gloom" merchants, aka The Press, here in the UK forecast a winter of discontent, fuel crisis, and the coldest winter ever recorded in the UK ?

We shall see..... they are rarely correct......

Watch this space for any updates :)

Till then ...... happy modelling.

All Engines Stop / Diversion Ahead

2005-11-03T19:58:00.000Z

While awaiting delivery of my deck planking, I have been sitting in my workshop pondering, the next move, as one does.

I have decided...... that this here Atlantis, is too BIG for my little workshop...... But don't panic !

I am currently seeking a much bigger workshop, that will increase the size 3 fold.

To all those would be Atlantis owners beware !!

You need a big BIG space to build this boat...

The new space will also allow me to pursue my small Swiss model railway project at the same time.... there is just not enough room in my present workshop, to combine both my hobby interests.

Apart from which, actually laying the deck planks will be nigh on impossible as access to both port and starboard sides of the hull is required.

Otherwise, (as there are around 240 planksto lay) I would have to handle /rotate the boat around 500 times !

Had I thought of this, I would have added that heavy cast iron ballast AFTER the deck had been laid ! Makes sense doesn't it !

Also, placing the boat in the centre of your workspace on a Tv turntable , would be an ideal way of working on both sides, alternately. Simply rotate the boat after laying each plank.

So for the next few months, there will be little progress on the Atlantis, as the planning and logistics need sorting for her new larger home.....

By the time this "new" project is complete, I will be ready to continue the Atlantis build in space and comfort..

As Arnie says........ " I'll be back !"

FF ( Fast Forward)

2005-10-28T21:45:00.000+01:00

Not much progress this week due to work & domestic "stuff".
While I am waiting for the deck timbers to arrive, I am "fast forwarding" to a few sub assemblies.

Actually leapt from section 8 to section 22 in the instructions !

Firstly the anchor winch assembly, this is a balsa block that needs shaping & sanding, then various small parts are added to complete the assembly.

Personally, I didn't like the look of the main balsa anchor housing, so I cladded it with very thin plasticard and filler as necessary, this gave me a much smoother finish. Sprayed with white primer it looks fit for purpose.. I haven't decided if I shall keep it white or paint another colour.

I have also made a start on the deck spinnakers..... these are shaped dowels that need further attention,in form of sanding to shape..... (Does seem a little odd to me, as one end of each dowel is already shaped, yet the other end the modeller has to do ?)

I used a "surform" tool to take off the bulk of the wood, before hand sanding to the final shape. This photo clearly shows the difference between the two ends !

Decision on planking

2005-10-19T16:59:00.000+01:00

Well, after a small straw poll amongst my pals, the overall wood of preference was the Honduran Mahogany.

However, after sitting and looking at my test samples, I have decided to "buck the trend" and go for the Lemonwood as the main planking material !

It is about 50% darker than the Robbe planks supplied, and I feel, the light deck and the darker mahogany superstructure will contrast & look nicer, rather than all dark wood.

In the end, it's ones personal choice /decision, and I am happy with that decision.
Needless to say Keith at Modelling Timbers has got my order, as their quality & service is truly excellent.

Approximately 3/4 weeks to delivery, as each plank is individually cut and machined to order.
So I may look further into the instructions and continue with a sub assembly or two !

Samples Arrived

2005-10-17T18:25:00.000+01:00

Well, true to his word, Keith at Modelling Timbers, delivered, my samples of Lemon wood and Honduran Mahogany. ( thanks Keith :)

The quality of these timbers & machining is truly excellent..... I regret to say, having seen these, the Robbe planks are destined for the scraps box or paint stirrers !

These two woods are simply fantastic quality.

Above shows from front to back, robbe kit planks, Lemonwood, Honduran Mahogany, all in their natural state.

Cutting & gluing them to plasticard with long edges "marked", after one sanding operation and one coat of robbe wood wax, they look like this.......

Now, I have the dilemma, both are such lovely timbers, I don't know which I prefer !

I am also experimenting further with the caulking method, as advised by Keith at Modelling Timbers, now I have 200 of robbe planks to play with ! (Sorry Robbe!)

Once I make my decision, I shall place my order with Keith.... a small straw poll among my pals, shows their favourite is the Honduran Mahogany, which does have a warm feeling in its colour! !

Watch this space for my final decision and progress !

A Discovery !

2005-10-16T17:47:00.000+01:00

Purely by chance I have discovered this wonderful web site

http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk

Keith Jewell is the proprietor,and what a helpful guy he really is.
He will bespoke cut his 1st quality timbers to your requirements, at no extra charge.

His web site is a mine of information, of interest to all modellers, looking to purchase the finest quality timber for their projects.

As you are aware, I have been looking for something "better" for planking my Atlantis deck, rather than use the supplied planks from the kit.

Modelling timbers offers a superb pre-sales service, backed up with excellent advice, knowledge and top class products.

True "top notch "service, so rarely seen these day :)

They are sending me samples of 2 types of wood he recommends... and once I have possession of these and made my decision, he is sure to get my order !

Interestingly, Keith ( being a timber expert) concurs with Robbe's recommendation of waxing the deck, ( NOT VARNISHING). I for one, will be accepting his advice :)

Do take a good look at his web site, you will have a "voyage of discovery".... trust me .

Size Matters !

2005-10-15T08:58:00.000+01:00

Just in case anyone has no idea just how big this project really is ..... Check this out !

Photo courtesy of SMG Isar-Piraten

Initial Plank Tests

2005-10-13T19:30:00.000+01:00

While waiting delivery of some differing types of wood plank, I have been "testing" the supplied robbe planks.

Here is my first test, ABC, all using the robbe planks.

A = initial test using a permanent marker on the plank edges and across the cuts. Planks then sanded and coated with one coat of robbe wood wax ( supplied in Atlantis wood pack)

The marker, gave the "planked " impression I am after, however the ink "bled" quite severely across the grain.... So not happy with this, just yet.

However there is a "side effect" that I do like.... the friction of the sanding action, "spread" the ink all over the planks, giving an instant weathered effect, which I quite like.

B= is actually the same planks, laid as is, untreated, but sanded...... hmm...... this is what I want to avoid !

C = is getting closer to my desired effect, but still has the bleed problem.

A trip to the local Staples office store, and purchased £7 worth of various types of permanent markers..... the "across" the grain issue of bleed is still a problem despite using an array of different markers. So I hit on the idea of using a good quality black lead pencil for these "cross grain" markings, on the ends of the planks.

I am now a little closer still to the effect I am after > After sanding down all these pieces and adding 2 coats of wood wax, the effect is starting to show I am heading in the right direction.

C= in this photo is the best result yet, But still not the result I want.

I am now thinking , "What if ?" I change the wood type, maybe the grain of different woods may improve my technique ?

Bear in mind this is natural coloured wood too, not stained, but clearly a big improvement on the original robbe idea !

I will have to wait till the new planks arrrive at the end of next week !

Almost at stage 9......planking the deck.

2005-10-11T21:34:00.000+01:00

This is the Robbe Way, the deck planks are just about visible.

I want to improve on this if I can !

(I'd be happy if they were as distinct as the cabin roof planks)

Here we are, almost up to the daunting task of section 9.... the deck planking.

I still am not confident to start this task, as I am yet to find a method to highlight the individual planks.

As stated earlier, I feel the instructed "Robbe" method, leaves much to be desired. The planks certainly will not reflect the effort /work involved in laying them ! There are 230 of them !

I am still experimenting with differing methods to mark the edges of the planks to give that "individual "look. I have also ordered some different types of wood strip, to see if the whole process /appearance can be enhanced even further.

For the time being, until these strips arrive and I have had a "play", the blog progress report will be on hold.

This photo clearly shows the effect I hope to achieve.

Check back for the results and hopefully progress !

Stage 8 Warning !

2005-10-09T18:45:00.000+01:00

While on stage 8, you will need to cut to size, the square sectional part that will support the masts under the decks ( mast girders 8.2 & 8.3)

Roughen the proposed gluing surfaces as well as the centre joint line under the deck.

It would seem this joint between the centre hatch and forward hatch varies between hull to hull, on some there is quite "bump". On mine it was still a bump, but not as bad as some .

As warned by my pal Taylor, this can cause a problem "bedding" the mast girders under the centre line.

I used plenty of stabilit, nice and thick layers on the forward mast girder, then clamped it into position. Ensuring it was centred, before tightning the clamps...... then left it to set overnight.......

BEWARE !

Even with clamping, this "bump" on the joint, allowed my forward mast girder to slip sideways, setting slightly offcentre.... ! arrghhh !

Fortunately it is slightly "off line" toward forward hatch, so I will get away with it.... had in been the rear, it would have complicated matters considerably !!

You have been warned, I suggest you literally "watch" the glue dry on this part of the build !

Trust Taylor & I on this ...

Further support (stage 8 )

2005-10-09T18:30:00.000+01:00

My sincere thanks to my American pal, Taylor Sparks for this next advice...

Stage 8 of the instructions tell us how to prepare & install the 4 deck /shroud support pieces, using a mirror and somehow marking the internals of the hull, before gluing them in position !

After a few attempts at trying to use a mirror to mark simply the internal marks, I gave up !

I asked my Atlantis "Guru" Taylor for advice...... as usual, he imparted some very useful advice, that proved a much easier solution than Robbe's instructions !!

As he said to me:

Jump ahead to stage 10 ( even though the planking of stage 9 hasn't been completed), go ahead, measure and drill the 8 deck holes for the mast stays /shrouds.

Take part 8.1 centre it correctly on TOP of the deck,over the holes,mark through the holes from underneath , below deck .
Afterwards, flip it over, place 8.1 UNDER the deck and "spot"(view) the markings through the drilled holes from above.

I did this and its much simpler than doin it the"Robbe way" :)
Remember, there are 4 pieces of 8.1 !

Roughen up the 8.1 pieces,(don't rub off the markings !) and similarly under the deck, this will give a key for the adhesive to hold onto.

Again, add Stabilit to the part, place into position, spot those dots thro the drilled holes and patiently hold in situ, till the glue bonds !

Unless you have Octopus arms only mix up enough resin to stick one at a time !

Deck supporting Role !

2005-10-09T18:05:00.000+01:00

The instructions quote dimensions of where to place the deck supports as well as the dims for the shroud drilling points. ( yes , I am jumping a little ahead of the instructions) will explain later !

But...... given the hull has a good curvy shape, the initial 30mm dim from edge of the hull is not easy to mark or measure from with a straight ruler !

To get a work around for this,

I used some waste material to make myself a spacer marker, the upper part is 30 mm width and it is is glued to the side piece that butts up to the edge of the hull. simply move the piece along the bulwark ridge while marking the deck as required.

Then you will have consistent, parallel 30 mm marking on which to base the next important dimensions on !

Servo, Keel and Sealant

2005-10-07T20:38:00.000+01:00

I always find silicone sealant to be a rather smelly /noxious substance, ( evidently, rumour has it also, that the fumes in a confined space, can affect the r/c gear ? ) dunno, may be just a rumour ?

So I sought out an alternative, the local Homebase store sells a water based polymer sealant, does the same job, but with hardly any pong ! A little more expensive but suits me Sir :)

The instructions now tell me to add sealant to the hulls internal keel fin, add the keel weight and push it as far aft as it will go then seal the edges with sealant.

I have done this.. and boy is the hull HEAVY !!!

In hind sight, I may have delayed this install, as the hull has not yet been painted !

Then again, the deck needs planking before the transom is fitted, etc etc, so I just followed the instructions !

I wont be able to invert the hull to paint it until the sealant has set, approx 48 - 72 hours !

So my thoughts are now turning to a colour scheme for the hull !

All go innit ! :)

Next day delivery of the new rudder servo has allowed me to complete that section of the build.
Excellent service from Howes Models as usual.

I found the servo part to which it fits 7.13 hasn't had the rudder post hole drilled yet. On checking the plans, it seems to have been omitted by Robbe, anyway a 5.5 mm drill bit is required for a nice tight fit over the rudder post.

Make sure you rotate the rudder post /tube when applying the Stabilit, make sure the hole is sealed !

You will need to ensure the support parts are also trimmed to butt up to the post, before using stabilit to secure. I found the 2 side gussets angle, needed trimming before fitting. To glue these parts, I used Stabilit, as I feel it gives a stronger bond than the cyano Robbe suggest.

Note whenever using Stabilit, do ensure you use glass paper to roughen up the glueing surfaces !

My Thoughts

2005-10-04T20:18:00.000+01:00

are turning towards the daunting task of deck planking , of which I have no experience at all !

One things for sure, I want to try and improve on the planks appearance that Robbe recommend. Seems to me laying planks "the Robbe way, the wood loses
the planks individuality.

On some other builders models, they too have thought the same, but have sucessfully captured that "single planked look" that I aspire to !

Having sought much advice on a UK forum, many ideas and recommendations have been forthcoming. I will need to experiment with the techniques suggested, to see if /how they work, and which I am comfortable using.

I shall publish my results, when I have experimented more, but this is definately an area where mistakes are unacceptable !

The deck planking will be a major visible feature !

Rudder Servo

2005-10-04T20:11:00.000+01:00

I have now ordered a Hi Tec servo for the rudder : I have gone for a "new kid on the block" from Hitec, the HS-325HB.

The HS-325HB is the new standard in Ball Bearing Sport servos incorporating the new revolutionary "Karbonite" gear train.

The HS-325HB is the new standard in Ball Bearing Sport servos incorporating the new revolutionary "Karbonite" gear train. Karbonite is four times stronger than our standard white nylon gears and even after hundreds of thousands of cycles it will not show any signs of wear. Add a long life potentiometer for precise centering and an all new custom IC to make the HS-325HB the toughest standard ball bearing servo money can buy.

Motor Type : 3 Pole Ferrite Bearing Type : Top Ball Bearing Torque 4.8/6.0v : 42 / 51 oz. 3.0 / 3.7 kg. Speed 4.8/6.0v : 0.19 / 0.15 second Size : 1.6"x 0.8"x 1.4" 41 x 20 x 37mm Weight : 1.7 oz. 48 g.

The Keel....

2005-10-03T17:05:00.000+01:00

is a huge cast iron ready moulded item, weighing in at a wopping 11kilo !!

This is an expensive item, don't drop it !!

Robbe state that it needs rubbing down with coarse glass paper, which I did. Next I sprayed around 3 good coats of car primer ( red oxide in colour) to seal it and give some protection against rust.

It's now put aside to dry and for a later part of the construction.

Slow ahead

2005-10-02T19:54:00.000+01:00

Well, I seem to be slowing to a halt, I am reaching a point in the build, where I will soon need to stop, as I need to spend some more money !

I cannot complete the internals of the rudder support assembly, until I have the rudder servo to fit.

I have decided to fit an upgraded servo, probably metal geared and ball raced. The Atlantis IS a very heavy ( & expensive) model so I'd rather not economise now and regret later.

I cannot install the keel yet, as I need to purchase some red oxide metal paint, to spray the cast iron keel, then some bathroom silicone sealant is also needed to fix it into place.

Also, to fit the internal deck shroud supports, I need some larger clamps to hold them in situ while the adhesive sets !

Fortunately, there are many sub assemblies later in the build, to keep one occupied if needed (but I am in no rush).

My thoughts at the moment are turning to the next big stage, the deck planking ! It does seem somewhat daunting !

I shall have to research some, and build up my confidence, before I tackle such a "visibly critical " stage !

Rudder Progress

2005-10-01T19:32:00.000+01:00

Assembly of the rudder is quite straight forward until you come to fit it !

The metal rudder support piece is too long for the recessed part of the hull, see photograph
As the part is predrilled, I thought it better to make the hull recess a little larger to accomodate it, rather than mess about with the fitting!

I found I had to file approx 3mm extra off, ( the arrow on photo) this then allowed the fitting to sit correctly.

Pilot drill two 2.2mm holes and screw in the self tapping screws to secure.

Finally the excess rudder stock needs cutting off level with the metal fitting.

Just for added peace of mind, I have also added some more epoxy resin inside the keel, on top of the wooden support ( the keel fitting screws into this wooden part)

This is an overview, showing rudder fitment and the auxiliary motor propshaft.

Stabilit at the ready !

2005-09-29T19:01:00.000+01:00

Well, slow ahead progress continues, this pic shows the adaptation of the motor well wall, again with the rudder post parts loose fitted.

As stated earlier, the well, in my case is not a "flooded" compartment, so the cut out is not detrimental to the construction, however it does allow me more space to jiggle the motor set up into a better forward position. Similarly, this cut out allows quite a bit more tiller arm "throw"

So out with the Stabilit Express ( Recommended by Robbe, and my personal favourite resin adhesive) and glue everything in place, and leave to dry.... After which the motor and popshaft assembly can be glued in situ, check & make sure the propshaft is central along the moulded line on the hull, and there is sufficient clearance for the prop.

Once this stuff sets you will NEVER MOVE IT !!

Tip: line the external part of where the shaft exits the hull with masking tape, this will effectively "mould" the stabilit to the hull shape as it sets,You will need to repeat this excercise, inside and out to make sure the opening is well sealed !

Oh, and before I forget, I drilled a hole in the side wall, to allow the motor wires safe exit, well away from the rotating parts of the motor & gears :)

Knowledge

2005-09-26T17:25:00.000+01:00

Is such a good thing, and a tip from my friend Taylor Sparks, here. Before finally fixing /gluing the motor well in situ, I thought I'd do a loose, test fit of the rudder stock...As this photo clearly shows, it is very close to that wall!

By the time the tiller arm is on top, I agree with Taylor, that wall will inhibit the "thro" movement of the rudder. Given that this "well" will contain the newer type motor set up, it won't be flooded ( like the old version) so this wall can be trimmed.

I shall make a small cutout, where pencilled, this will allow full movement of the tiller arm, and give me a few mm extra "play" for the motor assembly, should I need it.

Also Taylor suggested that *as built per instructions* he found that single rear pulley position ( you can see its anchor point on that wall) the sheeting loop sometimes interferes with the rudder servo mounting which fits immediately fits in front of the rudder stock.

With this in mind, I have drilled out 2 additional 2.5mm holes which will give me further spacing options, should I need to move the existing & add an additional pulley.

There's no way you would be able to drill those holes, so best do it before its glued in !
Thanks Taylor :)

External View

2005-09-26T17:15:00.000+01:00

Certainly this new motor set up isn't as discreet as the older drop n lift version. I need to optimise its position before gluing in situ. By moving the motor slightly forward and lowering its angle I could get that prop closer to the hull, however, there is a risk that it would show /break the surface whilst sailing the model.

hmm... I shall think on before adding the glue !

Internal Motor view

2005-09-26T17:10:00.000+01:00

As you can see the motor is a tight fit within the motor well /box. Not much rearward movement at all, Immediately behind wall 3.1 there is the rudder post.
I may gain a few mm, if I cut out some of this wall.

Motor fit

2005-09-26T06:13:00.000+01:00

Not much progress, to document, other than I started fitting the auxiliary motor set into the hull.
As you can see, the motor well/box needs to be loose fitted, the hull inside is marked with pencil.The dimensions are then marked on the centre line, showing where to drill ( according to the motor set instructions) I used a 6mm drill for a series of holes then opened them up with a small file.

The motor is quite a tight fit inside the box, and the exit angle of the propshaft quite acute.
I shall play with this for a while, to find the optimum position, before gluing n situ.

My friend Taylor Sparks is quite right in his thinking, this "new" type of motor does set the propshaft & propeller higher up the stern centre line , when compared to Robbe's original "drop down "set up.

I have thought of cutting out some of the forward facing wall, this may gain me a couple of mm, but not much, as the rudder post is immediately behind it.

Still, it's got to be fitted........... sometime soon !

HMM...... I am having serious problems uploading images today. I shall continue to try... :(

Seems at the moment the only way I can add pics is to use the Picasa software, personally I'd rather do it manually..

Men & Women with Atlantis

2005-09-25T18:55:00.000+01:00

As I have found so little on the web concerning the Atlantis, owners or builders, I am actively collecting and linking ( with owners permission!) to those sites.

My hope is to provide a resource centre for all of us who own one of these superb models.

You will find my "favourite links" page on my personal site
http://www.busybeas.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/

is updated as a priority, so do check them often.

It has taken many, many hours, surfing activity to get those few !

However, as in all things, there are" some" losers !

Regrettably " some" I have approached for permission to link have refused, and insisted I remove all traces, fortunately the "true modeller" mostly gives their blessing.

So onward with the research and the build !

Just as a taster, here's a few fab models you can look forward to, ( and the standard I aspire to build to !)

Motor set

2005-09-25T18:46:00.000+01:00

These are the parts that make up the newer type of power set, that will be fitted in the "traditional way"

This is the fully assembled unit, expensive I thought, for what is a 380 motor, gears prop shaft , and propellor, but it is tried and tested by Robbe so, it's a "must have".

Under Way

2005-09-25T18:24:00.000+01:00

This is really catchup time from my original personal homepages
http://www.busybeas.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/, But as the build has only recently started it won't take too long :)

The very first part of any build is the building of the stand, the model does need a sturdy base on which it must be built. I "recycled" an old pine desk top for this purpose.

I felt an essential purchase (amongst others), is the Robbe Auxiliary motor /power set. In earlier models Robbe used a cannibalised outboard motor model and it was incorporated inside a flooded, sealed compartment in the hull, and was operated by a lever system and servo which lowered it in and out of the hull !

Personally, I like less water in my model hulls, not more ! Though the idea was a good one.

This method is now no longer available or used, now there is a small motor with gears and traditional propshaft type which is used.

This still fits within the original "motor well" but it is a tight fit, see later diary entry!

This well needs assembly as per the instructions, but it is far too high, and too wide to fit beneath the rear hatch, thus.

After around 2 hours of cutting ,trimming and sanding it does eventually fit. Be warned, you really do need to trim quite a bit off the width and the height.

A little more background

2005-09-25T18:11:00.000+01:00

Having found my ISP's webspace allowance a little on the low side, I have now joined the world of "bloggers" :)
This will be a super way to keep track of the progress of my latest model, The Atlantis,

Here's a little more info from Robbe, the kit manufacturers, which will give you some idea of the scale of this build!

The models details taken from the http://www.robbe.com/ site,

Twin-masted Gaff Schooner to 1:20 scaleThe original vessel was built in 1935 and is a 28 m long gaff-rigged schooner. The special sail arrangement on the boat makes her stand out from the more familiar ship types of her time, and for this reason she is of particular interest to the modeller. With a sail area of just on one square metre, distributed over several separate sails, and a streamlined hull with its characteristic extended keel, this imposing model offers an excellent performance and good manoeuvring capability. Although the boat is quite heavy, the draught of the Atlantis is relatively small, so shallow in-shore waters present no problem. The multiple sails give the operator plenty of scope for trimming the model to suit different wind speeds just by lowering and setting individual sails. For light winds a Genoa is available. The boat features an ingenious tensioning mechanism which means that only one screw has to be slackened on each mast when it is time to transport the "Atlantis". All the shroud settings can be left unchanged.

The Beginning, the kit

2005-09-25T17:42:00.000+01:00

The Kit is packed in a HUGE box,some 5 feet by 18"square, just about fits within my car with seats folded down!

I had to "come clean" with the wife on this purchase, it's rather too large to smuggle in !

It's certainly not a cheap model, when one adds accessories ( rather essentials to my mind) but £'s per inch, it compares rather well to other models ( I am still TRYING TO CONVINCE THE WIFE !)

Inside, the contents are of excellent quality, the Robbe "Plura" moulded hull is superb, with precut hatches, and rudder post hole pre-drilled, and is of consistent thickness throughout.

Though it is a type of abs plastic, it is not to be confused with cheaper thinner "efforts" from other manufacturers.

The quality, even puts to shame some of the better g/f hulls I have experienced to date !